Showing posts with label History. Show all posts
Showing posts with label History. Show all posts

24 Jul 2021

Jumpsuit








During the industrial revolution, this working garment became very popular, and then, represented the main working clothes in factories, the uniform of fighter pilots and paratroopers in the II world war.
Properly called "boilersuit" or "coverall" made of heavy canvas or denim, designed to protect workers' street clothes and bodies from oil, soot, grime, sparks and other workplace hazards. 





As well as that women who has replaced men in factories during the war, Jumpsuits were their main garment. Then, during the disco era, jumpsuits was present but in a fashionable option, adorning with flashy colours and flashes. Become a symbol of eccentricity - not always in good taste - It becomes the holding of favourite scene pop stars cuch as Madonna, Britney and celine Dion.

From Factories to Catwalk.





The Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli designed a bunker following a light-blue hooded jumpsuit, braided decorations on cuffs, ankles and waist-line, and a cross-body water bottle.
The futuristic connotation is clear, When The jumpsuit is the suit of sci-fi fiction. For example, the Star Trekturned shiny bi-color jumpsuit Into a cult room.


70's Casual and Disco music



Disco came to be associated with both culture and fashion, and was at the zenith in the late 1970's. The fashion crowd favoured the New York club Xenon, which had a reputation for a more extreme interpretation of the disco look and where dancers cavorted in cages wearing only Spandex leotards and body glitter. In 1977 disco was thrust into mainstream culture by the popularity of the movie Saturday Night Fever, the high point of the disco boom. 


on Stage 

Memorables rock stars, on stage, the flared jumpsuits and over-decorated, embroidered in gold and completed by a short mantle, seen on an exhilarating Elvis Presley. Characterized by a glam and psychedelic vide, the striped jumpsuit with exaggerated cut, worn by David Bowie in the role of the androgynous alter ego Ziggy Starddust in 1972. Unforgettable check the black and white jumpsuit is Freddie Mercury and the diamond-print one on Mick Jagger.




Elvis, Nick Jagger, David Bowie, Freddy Mercury 




90's Glamorous decadence


The Italian fashion designer Gianni Versace (1946-1997) and Dolce & Gabbana celebrated the the return of high-voltage fashion during the 1990's. 



Flamboyant print jumpsuit by Versace, 1990's.




In the early 2010, luxuries brands by Saint Laurent, Alexander Wang using silk fabrics, purple and hooded for Diane Von Furstenberg, pink patterns by Marc Jacobs, or horizontal stripes - a trademark- at Sonia Rykiel.


Ready to wear, Saint Laurent Spring 2014.


Summer 2010. Among the Most Famous jumpsuit, the floral-printed one by Stella McCartney, the multi-pocket one by Givenchy, the one made of silk plaid by Prada. Pixie Geldof Attended the H & M flagship store opening in London and has Wore shorts jumpsuit mustard. Erin Wasson Attended a party in Los Angeles wearing Prada The Above Mentioned room. Elettra Wiedemann and Helena Christensen Wore loose jumpsuits and long: the first Attended a Swarovski cocktail wearing an orange number, while the second Was spotted at a party for Antony Todd wearing a jumpsuit with no accessories. Was Rihanna snapped in Los Angeles wearing the floral, ultra-girly and frilled jumpsuit by Stella McCartney.



Zara Jumpsuit Summer 2021.


11 Aug 2020

BCBG -


BCBG


 Bon Chic, bon genre or  good style, good class is an expression used in France to refer to a subculture of stylish members of the Paris upper class living on the right bank (rather than the intellectual, countercultural left Bank). The main characteristics in its style are: 

polish,
good breeding,
good booming,

This smart uniform with classic luxuries items are: a cashmere sweater, kilts and twin-set, a pair of ballet pumps, an Hermès Birkin bag, and some accessories like a silk scarf,  school satchels, pearl necklaces, and  expensive watches.

 BCBG is also to be known as "seizieme' after the 16th arrondissement, one of the most chic neighbourhood in Paris. This style was the symbolism of the style had its greatest power, it often looked more old-fashioned, the young dressing much like the old, with safe conservatism.


Most of the French actresses is still wearing this style, like Marion Cotillard with a polished style, clothes with perfect figure, a glamorous evening gown, and understated makeup.


Catherine Deneuve

The queen of BCBG style and the favourite muse of the couturier Yves Saint Laurent. 






Grace Kelly





Francoise Hardy






Olivia Palermo







                                                      Clemence Poesy







Ines De la Fressange










Ines de la Fressange tips














20 Apr 2015

A brief history of the ring.



The use of personal rings was present from the time of the Egyptians, the Incas or the Romans. The rings of these people accustomed to put them engravings of gods and emperors, which served to demonstrate the power of whom wore, and only priests, emperors or consuls were worthy of such privilege.

Ring set of Ramses II, Musee du Louvre, Paris


Rings of various sizes and with various incisions showed the degree of Roman politicians, while rings appearing divinity, were worn by pharaohs and priests as protection, but also as a symbol, given directly to the divine strength, its ability to protect its people and knowing guide.

Ring of the Fisherman, wore by Pope Benedict XVI



Rings are the most common and perhaps the most evocative pierces of jewellery. The main sign of love to mark weddings, remember the dead, show a religion faith, a fashion accessory, etc.

Rings were traditionally made from precious metals such as gold and silver, alongside the cheaper alternatives of bronze, iron, or tin. Another options were gemstones, enamels, ivory, and for modern jewellers, plastics, acrylics, etc.

  Medieval Style.



Lady Joan Beaufort, Paris, 1430-40

Mary of Burgundy, Duchess of Brabant, 1477

In an age when magic, science and religion were intertwined, a ring could be worn as a sign of faith, as an amulet or to cure illness. The gift of a ring could, as now, signify love or cement social relations. 
Some gemstone means a religion and symbolic powers. For example, the Sapphires, they were offen used on episcopal rigs, required to be of gold set with an uncut stone, which were given to bishops at their consecration. Sapphire rings have been discovered in the tombs of several English bishops, including one allegedly found in the grave of William Wytlesey, Archbishop of Canterbury, who died in 1374.

Romantic inscriptions known as posies, often written in french or latin, the languages spoken by educated people across Europe, decorated many medieval rings.


Gold ring, France 1500-30. Outside of hoop inscribed "Ung temps viandra" (A time will come): the inside "mon desir me vaille" (My longing keeps me awake).

18th Century


In the 18th century the diamond ring became an essencial accesory for the well-dressed gentleman.  
The diamond ring appears frequently in contemporary portraits, including in one Johann Christian Bach (1735-82) in which the elegantly dressed composer holds a sheet of music and wears a ring, probable set with a diamond, on his little finger.


Johann Christian Bach.

20th century

In twentieth century brought innovation and diversity in jewellery design. The Arts & Crafts movement begun in Britain in the last decades of the 19thC. Artists rejected industrial manufacturing and its effects on urban life, and looked to the Middle Ages for inspiration, following the design principles of medieval guilds.



Ring belonged to May Morris, daughter of the socialist, artist and designer William Morris. This ring shows the influence of medieval designs and also traditional Jewish marriage rings.



In the Boudoir by Dolf van Roy

The art of Egypt, China and India influenced Art Deco jewellers, who brought exotic combinations colours and style.   Arresting colour combinations were also inspire by the stage stage costume that Leon Bakst created for Diaghilev's Ballets Russes, which performed in Paris from 1909. 
Some Art Deco Jewellers took inspiration from abstract art and the modernist principles of the Bauhaus School of Germany. 




An ilustration from the 1927 edition The Delineator, a popular american women's magazine



The romance of the machine and the speed ans dynamism of modern metropolitan life was reflected in these jewellery designs. Left: gold and chrome ring set with diamonds by Jean Depres. Right: platinum with coral, diamonds and innovative black plastic by Alexandre Marchak, Paris, 1920's.

American Actress Irene Dunne 

The 1950's and 1960's Europe saw a desire to break with tradition in architecture, sculpture, painting and jewery. 
Restrictions on the supply of gold continued in Britain after the war ended in 1945. The post-war optimism of the 1950's gradually spread to the jewellery industry as clients returned to the mayor jewellery house of Europe and America, like Boucheron and Asprey.
Hollywood stars such as Ginger Roger, Liz Taylor or Grace Kelly promoted the fashion wearing Fantastic Jewels in films and their social life.



Ginger Roger wears a ring set with a large square gemstone, 1948.

In the 1970's precious metals were another materials, like acrilic. For instance, Wendy Ramshaw won the Council of Industrial Design awars in 1972 with designs based on geometric forms, and inspired by urban archtecture and the space age. 


Wendy Ramshaw: Paper cardboard and plastic jewellery from mid-60's.



Vintage colourful laminated rings, mid-1960's


The most famous engagement ring in the british monarchy.
  
Kim Kardashian's 20.5-carat Lorraine Schwartz ring with an emerald-cut centre stone and two 2-carat trapezoid stone. Her 72-days husband, Kris Humphries, helped design the ring.

The first Mademoselle Chanel's jewellery collection was in 1933, that symbolised  the brand's identity.

The New Ultra ring by Chanel, in 18K white gold, black ceramic and diamond, 2015





29 Mar 2015

Fashion in the 18C.





In the 18th century in France, and in wider Europe, one of the most elegant and colourful artistic period was blossoning: The Rococo. The main protagonist in the Rococo was King Louis XV, his Court, and acting as the central theatre, the fantastic Palace of Versailles. Unfortunately, the Queen of France,Marie Leczinska, wasn't in the fashion spotlight, but the super-star in the rococo period was Madame de Pompadour, the mistress of King Louis XIV of France, and the wife of Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette.

 In this picture, by Francois Boucher, we can see some details of garments in the french Court.






1. Flared sleeves: the sleeves are slim to the elbow, pagoda style, and then flare out at the cuff.
2. A richy embroidered stomacher is attached to the either side of the dress. In this case, the stomacher is laden with knotted ribbon bows that are echoed in the choker.
3. the sink dress is timmed with double-headed pink roses.
4. her open-backed Louis heel slippers are trimmed with pearl beads.
5. wide panniered skirt: Pannier or "basket" petticoats could create a voluminous rounded skirt.

This Dress, a la francaise, that Madame de pompadour is wearing demostrates her position in the high society of France and the royal court. 
France led the way in the luxury trade in that time. For example, Lyon was the principal centre of silk weaving and embroidery, while Paris became the centre of haberdashery, accessories and innovative drapery. 
Lots of boutiques of the marchandes de modes (fashion merchants), jewellers and miliners were set up in Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore and Rue de la Paix (nowadays, an area of luxury brands).


Marie Antoinette
Archduchess of Austria and Queen of France and Navarre.



Contemporary Designers

Haut-Couture has stolen the french court in many ocations and different designers.



Dior By John Galliano A/W 2007


Modern Rococo Style By Chanel  

Alexander McQueen

Vivienne Westwood 

Christian Lacroix

Jean Paul Gaultier


Balenciaga By Nicolas Ghesquiere

Givenchy by Alexander McQueen 1996


Magazines








Headdress

The fashion for outsize hairstyles and headdresses was first set by Marie Antoinette, but it was taken to extremes by her courtiers.
Critics spoke of such hairstyles as dirty, accusing their wearers of harbouring nests of fleas.

The model of the ship (picture on the right) featured in the headdress, La Belle Poule, was well-known for its victory against the British frigate Arethusa in 1778, which began french nvolvement in the american War of Independence.




Films

The most famous "Marie Antoinette" by Kirsten Dunst 2006 / Lucille Ball in DuBarry was a Lady (1943)
Keira Knightley in The Duchess 2008 / Glenn Close in Dangerours Liaisons 1988.




Music


Madonna / Kate Perry / Beyonce


Campaigns: perfums